The Safavids
From the water of
immortality to the legendary source of Fin
The Royal Quarters Of
Qazvin, The Caspian, And Isfahan: City Garden
The idea of Persia was reborn in
adversity. During the hard centuries after the fall of the
Sasanians there was a renaissance in which poetry, painting,
textiles, architecture and its attendant gardens entered a
golden age.
Between 1491 and 1736, descendants
of the revered founder of a Sufi order who also was a master
politician and military leader, forged from a chaotic,
fragmented territory a great state, strong enough to figure once
more in world politics, powerful enough to compete against its
Ottoman and Egyptian neighbors, and rich enough to attract the
eager embassies of Europe. The Safavids extended and
defined Iran's borders. They created an entirely new
military and economic structure. They made the Shi'a branch
of Islam the state religion and they fostered a rich Persian
culture. Its greatest achievement was in architecture -
inseparable, in Persia, from gardens - and its finest monuments
stand today. Their architects was the flower of the
Safavid line, Abbas Mirza, known to history as Shah Abbas the
Great (1587-1628).
In 1587, when he was sixteen,
Shah Abbas seized the throne from his father and set about
securing his empire. During the first ten years of his
reign, he was almost continuously at war as he established his
borders and manipulated the factions that menaced the
throne. Almost from the beginning, however, he commanded
building, both public and private, as his grandfather Tahmasb
had done in ornamenting his capital at Qazvin (which he had
established to distance himself from the Ottomans and at the
same time move closer to the geographical center of the country)
with wide avenues and flower beds stretching out in seemingly
endless vistas, their length emphasized by flanking waterways
and avenues of trees.
Shah Tahmasb's architects
designed for Qazvin the group of gardens and the buildings
called the Chehel-Sotun Palace, the Dowlat Khaneh, and the Ali
Qapu, which face a wide promenade and the great square, Maydan-e
Asb. /Some four hundred feet wide and twelve hundred feet
long, this square was used for polo, receptions, and promenades
by the court and the citizens alike. The French scholar
Maria Szuppe writes: "From reading sources, it appears that
the Bagh-e Sa'adatabad was built according to precise
plans....." Qazi Ahmad Qomi writes that, "the
bagh was square and had buildings and covered pavilions (talar),
iwans and pools......the bagh was divided
geometrically." We are told by the scribe of the
Spanish ambassador, Don Garcia de Silva Figueroa, that for his
audience with Shah Abbas in the royal quarters in Qazvin on June
16, 1618, the ambassador and his entourage were led through
"a broad alley line with cypress and plane trees, then in
the middle and to the right they took another smaller alley
heavily covered by trees and more than 150 yards square, in the
middle of which stood a pretty pavilion open on all
sides....." such gardens would inspire Abbas's greatest
creation.
Shah Abbas built shrines,
mosques, fortresses, palaces, and bridges. All across the
country he placed a series of Caravanserais and lodges for the
relief of travelers, each about a day's journey apart. Sir
Thomas Herbert, traveling the route in 1627 with a British
embassy, was appalled at the white glare of this great salt
desert, so hot that the parties traveled by night, when,
according to legend, afrits and jinns and other monsters wailed
in the wind. As other travelers had, he halted at a royal
paradise known now as Tajabad, watered by a clear, small stream
fed by a qanat, as it still is. Because of this stream,
Sir Thomas reported, the garden abounded in "Damaske Roses
and other flowers, plenty of broad spreading Chenar trees (which
is like our beech) with Pomegranates, Peaches, Apricots, Plumes,
Apples, Pears, Chestnuts, and Cherries." It was a
paradise indeed, after the desert, "rich in nothing but
Salt and Sand."
Sir Thomas met the man he
called "Postshaw" (his rendition of Pad-e Shah, or
chief ruler) at one of Shah Abbas's summer garden palaces on the
Caspian Sea. It had, the Englishman reported, pleasant
gardens and a palace he found confusingly divided into four
banqueting houses, all "gorgeously painted."
This was one of a number of pleasure gardens Shah Abbas
built amid the marshes and forests of the region, adapting the
chahar-bagh to the slopes of the landscape with terraces and
water chutes.
An important element in the
creation of Safavid parks, and in their beauty, was the choice
of sites. The love that some rulers felt for the Caspian
region gave birth to a whole series of gardens: at Farahabad,
Ashraf (a garden complex near Behshahr), Abbasabad, Safiabad,
Amol, and Babol. In their geometrical principles and their
respect for symmetry we see repeated the designs of the gardens
on the plateau. Farahabad was established as a new royal
quarter in 1611 by Shah Abbas. The Italian Orientalist
Pietro Della Valle, who had an audience with the king at the
Chehel-Sotun Palace at Ashraf in 1618 and was able to visit the
women's residence, Bagh-e Tappeh or Anarun, in the company of
the vazir of Mazanderan, says that "the women's quarters
were located in a garden surrounded by walls and filled with
orange and lemon trees and fragrant plants." The
king's palace seemed small to him; of the interior he said that
"the rooms are all decorated like the palace at Isfahan....on the inside and in the iwans are small basins with
water jets." The Farahabad complex followed the same
principles as the Meydan- Shah at Isfahan.
The Caspian gardens are gone
now, but the Bagh-e Fin near Kashan, at the edge of the great
salt desert where the mountains begin, remains, the oldest
living garden in Persia. A legend recounted by several
writers, including Hassan ibn-e Abdolkarim, tells how
"Goshtasp, the father of Darius 1, had the village of Fin
built, and brought forth water by means of qanats."
Others attribute this wonderful spring, called Solaymanieh, to
the legendary king Jamshid or even to Solomon. The garden
covers more than six acres, confined by a high wall that is
pierced with a monumental towered gateway. A spring and a
ghanat provide its precious water, which is also used to
irrigate fields outside and run a flour mill. Inside, the
garden is a variant of Chahar-bagh, with primary and secondary
axes defined by turquoise-tiled watercourses aligned across
shallow terraces. The second course is the route from the
pool where water from the spring enters the garden, a blue-tiled
pool whose water, according to the British garden designer John
Brookes, is reflected on the arched roof of a little pavilion built
over it. Through the watercourses, across the terraces and
pools and from the little fountains, the water rushes and
bubbles, all in the shade and piney scent of
four-hundred-year-old cypress trees. The garden has
several basins located on the axis of its walkways, including a
large basin that along with the pavilion occupies the center of
the square tract. Four other pools of water are covered by
cupolas both for shade and as a sign of respect for water.
A constantly filled reservoir outside the garden supplies a
subterranean conduit which is kept under pressure and gives
rise, at regular intervals, to the bubbling jets that supply the
water channels and the small basins. Along the outside
course, where the water is channeled from the garden, are
willows, with yellow cannas growing near and paddling ducks
beneath. Various buildings and pools have been added over
the centuries of this garden's history, and it has had periods
of decline, most recently after a nineteenth-century prime
minister, Amir Kabir, was murdered in the bathhouse just outside
on the orders of the Shah. But no ghost now disturbs the
garden's peace or charm.
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