The Legendary Fortress of Hassan Sabah By: Ideh Rashidi
This text
is a report of a trip to Alamut, a region on the southwest of the
Caspian Sea and the northeast of Qazvin, near Lake Evan. It was the
political and military center of Hassan Sabah, the founder of the
Ismaili sect, which came about during the reign of the Seljuq king,
Malekshah.
The ruins of the fortress of Hassan Sabah are
at the summit of one of the mountains in the region and can be reached
after trekking a long and treacherous road. Parts of the fortress that
survived the ravages of time are twelve arches, remnants of some
secret entrances to the fortress, and the relics of the stone walls of
the main hall.
The desire to go on this trip awakened in me
when I was halfway through the book "The Lord of Alamut". I
kept thinking about this book and imagined its scenes in my mind. The
historians contended that historical facts had been distorted, with
some even calling this as "anti-history." However, my
feelings were different. I remember how much I hated history at
school, but on reading this book, as well as other historical novels,
I became eager to learn more about the history of my country. I felt
ashamed that I had not seriously absorbed the facts that I tried to
learn by rote so many years ago.
Ten years had passed during which Alamut
always reminded me of Hassan Sabah, the leader of the Ismaili sect and
for whom Alamut was a sanctuary and a center of operations. I have not
yet been able to evaluate him, either in a positive or negative light.
He was as much a hero as a villain. He was as brave and able, as he
was treacherous and cruel. Who was he really? How did he destroy
Turkan Khatoon by deception in such a way that even today, nobody
knows where her grave is? I thought that a visit to Alamut would
reveal some secrets to me.
All these years, every time I asked how one
could go to this place, I always received disappointing answers, such
as: "There is only a road fit for donkeys and mules; you can't go
there by car; it has very steep slopes; it is dangerous to go on foot
and you definitely need an experienced guide ...". But I was not
deterred. I heard that every year, tourists from all over the world
see the place, so there must be a way.
It was a Thursday morning in early summer
that a group of us finally set out. It was to be a two-day trip as we
also wanted to go to Lake Evan, which is close to Alamut. We heard
about this place and also saw a photograph of the beautiful lake on
the cover of a monthly tourist journal. Only eight remained of the
fifteen who had originally declared their willingness to go. Some were
enthusiastic and others were just coming for recreation and diversion.
While on the road, we started to exchange information with our guide
about the place we were about to visit in order to create some
excitement. We recounted the stories we heard about Hassan Sabah and
about Alamut:
"Alamut is a mountainous region that
lies southwest of the Caspian Sea and northeast of Qazvin. In the
past, peasants scoured for medicinal herbs on its slopes, or carved
out for themselves small farms and orchards where they planted herbs.
The peasants sold these herbs to the urbanites, making Alamut one of
the centers of herbal medicine and a source of herbal raw materials.
It is said that the people of Alamut had a valuable collection of
information on medicine, but when the Mongol Khan, Hulagu, occupied
the fortress, he burned the books and destroyed "Lam-sar",
the strongest battlement within the Alamut fortress."
The Tehran-Qazvin freeway easily brought us
to the entrance gate of Qazvin, but thereafter, the road divided and
there were no guiding signs. Even our guide could not find the way to
Alamut. We went around the square several times hoping to find a sign
that would point the way to where we wanted to go but none was in
sight. So, we inquired from peddlers on the roadside and they pointed
a way that we followed with some hesitation, until our guide said we
were on the right trail. Nevertheless, we had stopped at every
crossroad and waited for someone to show up to give us directions,
occupying us to such an extent that we neglected to watch the
beautiful scenery around us. It was really beautiful - a thick forest,
vegetable gardens, heaps of wheat and undulating fields of green
wheat, singing birds, the deep blue sky, the green land and a dark
river flowing in between.
With every turn of the road, a singular vista
opened before our eyes and we did not know from which window to look.
Being in the middle of such a magnificent natural setting was such a
delight that nobody complained of hunger, as if stopping to eat would
cut short this sweet dream. I thanked God for being able to hear and
see (and for all other senses that made me able to experience such a
delicious feeling). I could see the same expression on the face of my
fellow travelers.
After we passed "Mo'allem-Kalayeh",
a small sign pointed the way to Lake Evan. This was the first sign we
had ever encountered on this road. The guide reminded us that the
program for the following day was a trip to the lake, which was an
hours distance from Alamut. A few kilometers further, the road
narrowed, becoming dusty and slippery as we advanced. The minibus we
were riding was ascending the snaking road, with the driver
dexterously trying to evade the large potholes still full of the
previous day's rain. To achieve this, he sometimes pulled all the way
to the side of the slippery road, making us hold our breath. We were
all pinned to our seats, with our eyes fixed on the road. The
exhilaration and thrill of a few moments earlier were replaced with
fear and anxiety.
The minibus was ascending slowly. Some
peasant women waved for the minibus to stop. We hesitated to do so,
fearing that the vehicle might slide backwards. We passed them but the
guide asked the driver to stop. The peasants then ran to board the
minibus, pulling along boxes full of plums. We moved to make some
space for them and in their local dialect, which was very similar to
that of northerners, they exchanged greetings with us. They informed
us that the only bridge on this road had collapsed so we should take
another route, which was not very good but other minibuses were able
to negotiate through. We continued on our way with anxiety. We would
have not known what to do if another car came from the opposite
direction. Along some parts, huge potholes had made the road very
difficult to pass and the driver kept trying to avoid the holes as
best as he could.
Finally, one of the women gave us the good
news that the steep road was over. We inhaled a deep breath of
satisfaction and started to watch the distant panorama of orchards,
wild flowers, cucumber farms, and girls and boys waving happily in
greeting. The minibus stopped in the middle of the village square and
the guide told us we would have to stay at the hotel. We all looked
for the hotel, which turned out to be on a two-storey building, with
beautiful flowers planted in front of the second floor window.
Compared to a regular house in the city, it was small, but it was
cleaner and more sanitary than most of the other houses in the
village. This was the only place available in the area where visitors
could stay. The other place was the village school (but that needed a
permit). We were lucky to find that the hotel's large and clean room
was not occupied.
After moving our equipment and taking a rest,
at around five in the afternoon, we started our ascent toward the
Alamut summit. A number of youngsters wanted to show us the way and
some villagers looked at us with curiosity. An old man told us to stay
the night and watch a marriage ceremony in the village that was
scheduled to take place in another hour.
Beside the first steep turn, an old woman sat
next to a door and asked for pain relieving tablets. She complained of
a persistent ache in her back. With some reservations and worrying
about possible side effects, a member of our group finally gave her an
analgesic. A few moments later, a bevy of children and adults were
following us, asking for money, medicine, food and many other things.
The guide told them we would see to their needs after we returned. We
wanted to see the fortress before sunset.
From afar, the peak resembled a mountain,
two-thirds of which had been cut off jaggedly and horizontally. The
path was very narrow and steep. If I could not hear the voices of some
young boys higher up, I would not have believed it possible to climb
up. Every once in a while, the soil slipped from under our feet and we
were stricken with terror at the thought of falling over the
precipice. Yet, the pride of conquering Alamut kept us from returning
along the half-completed road.
Considering that except for the guide, none
of us was a mountain climber, we reached the top in one hour. An
arched gate indicated the entrance to an open area and led us very
close to a precipice. The guide explained that the followers of Hassan
Sabah used many secret entrances. He pointed to some gateways that
were hidden under rocks or trees, adding: "These entrances were
connected to the main halls via tunnels dug under the rocks through
soil, but all of them are now destroyed and blocked, with the passage
of time."
One could still recognize the stone walls
belonging to two large halls. The guide said the larger hall had
probably been the dwelling of Hassan Sabah, but that the main building
lay beneath our feet, covered with dust and rocks. From what we were
saw, we could hardly imagine a battle fortress. We slowly walked up
and down the boulders in silence. Everything looked ordinary and
seemed just another mountain covered with sand, dust and wild plants.
On the extreme west of the peak, the guide
pointed to a pit twenty meters below us on the slope of the mountain,
which was called the pool. Apparently, during the winter, it became
filled with snow and provided the residents of the fortress with water
for the rest of the year.
From high up where we stood, the view of the
village on the slope of the mountain was stunning. Alone and far from
other people, isolated from their sadness and happiness, we could
still hear their cheers. They were bringing in the bride.
To be located higher up than anyone else,
being unreachable and remote induce a certain pride in human beings.
Maybe this pride reduced the sense of sorrow, melancholy and
loneliness the ancient residents of the fortress must have felt. I
felt a strange sense of anticipating a revelation. We watched from
between the boulders, hoping to find some new wonder and uncover a
secret. How human beings long to unravel the secrets of the past,
something they can never achieve. The best they can do is to bring
their guesses and speculations closer to the truth. Yet, how easily we
judge and even condemn, unjustly.
I was wishing I could sit, concentrate, and
summon the ghost of Hassan Sabah so that I could find out what went on
in his mind. So much struggle, so much defiance, so many killings of
people who did not think like him. What was all that for? I wanted his
ghost to tell me if he was happy with the course he took. In the
thousands of years spanning the history of Iran, he played a brief
role. But most Iranians and experts on Iran know him and his story.
His ideals though are still shrouded in mystery. The question came to
my mind: "Why was this historic region, with its strange fate,
left so desolate and why is there no organization responsible for its
preservation?"
The answer I heard only increased my
consternation: "Paying more attention to this region may be
construed as aggrandizing Hassan Sabah and his methods. People are
worried that it may encourage his followers, increase their number,
and, God forbid, spur them on to continue his path!"
How can such a thing be possible? What kind
of application can that sort of thought have in our world? Are the
roots of our faith so feeble that we will be swayed every which way
any breeze blows? I do not consider myself a zealot, but I felt
insulted. Aren't there Christians in our country? Aren't there
churches, Zoroastrians and followers of other theistic religions?
Aren't there sects with special rituals? How can one think that human
beings can be led to salvation by putting constraints on their
thoughts?
Human beings should learn the history of
their land. They should learn about the mistakes of the past: the
self-centered courses of actions, the one-dimensional outlooks. They
must learn about good and bad so that they can distinguish between
them when they encounter them in their lives.
The sounds of drum and horn reached a
crescendo and echoed in the mountain. The sun was about to set.
Anxious about the approaching darkness, we started to descend quickly.
It seemed that the road became easier to follow. The guide smiled and
said that we had climbed the wrong route, which of course was shorter.
We approached the village as the night spread
its dark pall across the sky, a black cloak covered with shining
jewels. What a beautiful night and how close were the heavens! They
said that Alamut has one of the most beautiful starry nights in the
whole of Iran. So many attractions, so many things to see in a village
so close to Tehran, a book full of history and so many things left
unsaid! With a little expenditure, this region can attract a great
number of tourists and generate much income for its poor residents. A
hidden treasure, the key to which are aspiration and some planning.
Next day at dawn, like many others who
traveled before us, we were gone. But the long expectation of Alamut
for an end to this several hundred years stupor would not yet come to
pass.
I think everyone slept that night thinking
about Hassan Sabah.
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